Walther’s and their clones are incredibly efficient and easily concealable. They are also built like little tanks, but they have a few small idiosyncrasies.
The APW Cogan Custom shop does a fine job within these three areas of improvement:


The first thing we recommend (almost insist) is an Action job. They are sprung very high and some of their stainless internal parts are not as friction free as they should be, that’s partially why they are sprung high. For you home grown gunsmiths, just chopping springs to make softer releases leads to more misfires than any thing we get to do repairs on. And we fix a lot of DIY repairs. Its like letting the chop shop fix the fender on your Jaguar or Mercedes that your wife missed whilst pulling it in the garage.


This one too is a no-brainier , the factory sights do not take into consideration the lockup of the firearm, the load you shoot, the shortness of the barrel, and the resultant optical “misses” associated with a short site picture from rear to front sight. Good sights allow corrections.


We improve the release and that improves the accuracy. The PPK and the PPKs are small framed, meaning small gripped guns. It’s like golf, if the grip isn’t right the whole game is shot. If you overcompensate because of a tough trigger pull, the grip won’t be right.

The last thing you need after a tough trigger pull is a nasty bite or cut on your hand. The back of the grip needs a little de-burring or they “tend” to bite the web on your hand. Pull the slide back and take a look at those edges under the back of the slide and then look at where your hand goes. We have a proven de-burring cure for that.


If you own a blued version and you carry one a lot, you should consider Hard Chroming it, especially if you carry in a shoulder or leg holster. These guys like any blued gun will rust with holster, skin or sweat contact. The one clone shown below was manufactured in Hungary and makes an excellent carry when tuned and Chromed.